RED RIDING HOOD

Two days reserved for doing this route 🙂 My travel soul was reaching its immortal stage. Let me show you which route we took:

Our very first wine cellar was the winery Turckheim. We took a nice walk through the city of Turckheim, again colombage or in english; timber houses forming the line of endless streets of the city. Afterwards we climbed the hills of Turckheim, and we had a view to see:

The road continued through many small cities with timbered houses, churches and wine cellars. We stopped so many times just to take the smell of the view. As odd as it sounds.

Next stop: Stoeckle! Boy that was an atmosphere. When I heard the music from the hill, it reminded me on my home region in Croatia: the Zagorje

Immediate stop, entrance to the wine cellar full of people and owner blowing into horn tube, playing the traditional song of Alsace. Here I tried all the possibilities of the wine of Alsace: Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Muscat d’Alsace, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, Cremant d’Alsace, and the rose made of Pinot Noir. I think that night I was in the mood to buy entire cellar.

Continuing the road, hitting the best moments of the golden hour and the best medieval cities on our way.

Next stop: Achilee. Don’t ask how we managed to stop there, but the vibe of this cellar was odd. The wine host was very nice and welcoming, while xplaining how the bio in his wines actually means performance to the full moon etc. I looked at the barrels, they looked happy. So what the heck, bring the degustation on the table! 🙂

Protected by the natural barrier of the Vosges Mountains, the vineyards of Alsace benefit from a unique climate and a variety of different grape-growing districts. The many different grape varieties which thrive here produce an incomparable range of rich and aromatic wines, from the driest and most delicate to the most opulent and full-bodied. The Alsace Wine Route, one of the oldest in France, crosses these different wine districts. From Marlenheim to Thann, it allows you to discover 170 km of scenic landscapes, from medieval villages and half-timbered houses decorated with flowers, to castles and Roman and Gothic churches. Enjoy!

Three years later and I am back on this route. I simply adore the lines of the vineyards, totally green, positioned on small hills that surround little Alsatian typical villages: with the church in the middle and red-roofed houses around. It couldn’t be more picturesque.

Riquewihr

Just as charming, picturesque and worthy of a visit. It was a bonus to find it less crowded here and easier to explore. The main street was wide but not fully pedestrianized. It was no surprise that Riquewihr was known as the “Gem of the Alsace Vineyards”.

In France, in 10 years, the wine tourism figure has increased by 33%! 10 million visitors come every year to discover french vineyards, including more than 3 million in Alsace.

Ribeauvillé

Cluttered around a 14th century fortified church was the quaint little village of Ribeauvillee, yet another enclave of historic half-timber houses set among the lush rolling hills of the Alsatian countryside. Arriving from the so-called Sentier Viticole from the south we entered into a world of pastel-colored cottages, many dating from the late Middle Ages and meticulously preserved by generations of local vintners.

Making a short stop to be able to degustate this great wine, we bought a local specialty: bretzels. They are salty and cheesy, so the alcohol soaks in quickly. A heaven to get fat soon. 😛 But you know how they say: the vacation calories don’t count.

This route of the vineyards is something most wonderful I have seen. I know I have said this already but my words just can’t pay the due. The road cuts between the timeless vineyards with stunning panoramic views of the Alsatian plains.

It was time for some degustation. We stopped at many small vineries, degustating and discussing. At our first stop we spoke a bit German, a bit French with our host. It was so charming. It couldn’t go more Alsatian than this. 🙂

Then out of nowhere, a visitor appeared. It came slowly, at the engle of the entrance door, carefully measuring us if we are kind enough for his presence. It was a stork! 🙂 The host said he is regular and comes to eat (and drink!). I have never fed a stork in my life and this was a great moment to remember!

Time to continue the route. Along the way there are many more places to discover, more vineries to visit, people to meet, to exchange the words and good will and more wine to degustate.

In one of the places we stopped at, we were treated by Miss France 2004 Laetitia Blaeger. What an honour 🙂 I mean, first the stork then Miss France… this place never stops to surprise.

Dambach – la – Ville

This village was a bit more calm and less touristy. So I had the opportunity to explore more and observe the little details around. Still charming, even though less vibrant, with less souvenirs shops and restaurants. This is where to eat your choucroute.

Obernai

To me this is one of the prettiest Alsace villages. Even though it is located at the very end of the route des vins, almost next to Strasbourg, it is worth the visit and explore.

Its historic town centre is full of architectural treasures and typical timbered houses of this region.

Obernai became a city around 1240 and then became an imperial city in 1280. The town prospered at that time. To protect itself against the covetousness of its powerful neighbours (including the bishop of Strasbourg), the prosperous town joined the Décapolis in 1354, an alliance of ten imperial towns in Alsace. It was the sixth largest city in the alliance in terms of power or wealth.

The veneration of Saint Odile is highly popular here in Obernai. Odile was the daughter of the Duke of Alsace and she was born blind. Her father did not want her because she was a girl and handicapped, so her mother Bethswinda gave her into a nearby monastery. Whilst there, an angel it was said miraculously recovered her sight.

Regardless of Saint Odile, the main church in Obernai is the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.

In case you get hungry, in Alsace you will not suffer for a long time. Alsatian food is synonymous with conviviality, the dishes are substantial and served in generous portions and it has one of the richest regional kitchens.

With these savoury specialities, savoury goodbye! I will be back 🙂 The route vins des Alsace is my favourite wine route and through the years I like to come back and taste all its tastes.