RED RIDING HOOD

My very first trip in 2024 was to this city. For the third time, I found some odd charm. Hungary is one of those isolated countries -having a language that no one around understands, but sharing the religion and certain customs. I remember as a kid when we would go shopping to Nagykanizsa – the customer service was always a bit odd and distant – not quite understanding the meaning of commerce.

Lake Balaton

So here we are, again. On our way to this beautiful country. We put Franz Liszt – the famous Hungarian composer from the 19th century (romanticism, in case anyone follows) and drove through the country.

First stop: Lake Balaton. This is the largest lake in Central Europe and one of the region’s foremost tourist destinations. It is a wine region as well.

Hungary is a wine country. Its most famous wine region is Tokaji. Talking about strange Hungarian language: only three European languages have words for wine that are not derived from Latin: Greek, Basque, and Hungarian. The Hungarian word for wine bor is ultimately of Middle Persian origin. How come Persian?

The Principality of Hungary was established in the late 9th century by Álmos and his son Árpád through the conquest of the Carpathian Basin. These were Hunic tribes. Some state that Álmos descends from the line of Attila the Hun. So the Huns, eventually moving from the Far East towards Europe, brought the language they collected while riding through the Middle East.

Perhaps this is the reason why the cuisine is odd too. Spicy, sweet spicy and sweet acid. I have to say, I enjoyed the different taste – for a change.

Our host let us enjoy it for a little while – as the winter sun was just above the lake. It started to warm. It was time to go.

Budapest

When we finally arrived, in the city, we were pushing it through the traffic. Soon we discovered why. The river Danube was in floods. Not something that happens in January. More like in the middle of the spring. But the climate change takes its toll. The snow in the mountains lasts a few weeks now before it starts to melt and bring the floods down with it.

Some photos taken from the car, as the first glimpse of the city.

Budapest consists of two cities: Buda i Pest. Our hotel Stories Boutique Hotel was downtown, in the Pest. A bit odd, a bit extravagant, hard to find, but when you find it – you enjoy every corner of its oddity.

King Stephen I ascended the throne in 1000, converting Hungary to a Christian kingdom. The medieval Kingdom of Hungary was a European power, reaching its height in the 14th-15th century. After a long period of Ottoman wars, Hungary’s forces were defeated at the Battle of Mohács (joint forces of Habsburg Vienna that among others sent Croatian troops)  and its capital was captured in 1541, opening roughly a 150-year-long period when the country was divided into three parts: Royal Hungary loyal to the Habsburgs, Ottoman Hungary and the largely independent Principality of Transylvania. The reunited Hungary came under Habsburg rule at the turn of the 18th century.

Hence the architecture: from medieval, romantic to Art Nouveau and neoclassicism.

Art nouveau architecture is Budapest’s signature style. Its sinuous curves, flowing, asymmetrical forms, colourful Zsolnay tiles and other decorative elements stand out like beacons in a sea of refined and elegant Baroque and mannered, geometric Neoclassical buildings.

King Stephen is also the Patron Saint of the country. Hence the Cathedral dedicated to his rests. Unfortunately, this time I didn’t have a chance to enter the St. Stephen’s Basilica as the Hungarians decided to cash the entrance to religious site that should be available to all. The line was long, We tried twice, but each time it was too long and too late to stand in line.

In front of the cathedral one can enjoy the various food on the market. It was a Christmas market this time and Hungarians brought the best of their winter stashes 🙂 Including Palinka and Debrecen sausages! The Essential Commandments for Living in Hungary!

Hungary in the 21st century plays or wants to play key role at the world stage. Hungary today wants to change the past or hide it. Visiting Budapest this time, I stumbled upon the certain demonstrations.

Hungary was never a part of the Soviet Union. Hungary and other states in Eastern Europe were known as Soviet satellite states during the Cold War. Nevertheless, the traces of Soviet influence can be seen across the city. Just like this Soviet War Memorial.

What you see next to the Soviet War Memorial is the USA Embassy. The politics here in Central Europe are perplexed. Just right next to it is the statue of Ronald Reagan. It is there because the Hungarian people wanted to show their appreciation for the former U.S. president’s efforts in ending the Cold War, which in turn helped to end the Russian influence in Hungary. The statue faces the U.S. embassy, but at the same time, it also looks directly at the monument commemorating the Red Army.

And if you want to go more into the controversial history of the Hungarian Republic, I advise you to visit the rest of Liberty square park. There are plenty hidden monuments that tell a certain story with which you may not agree upon. Like this Monument of National Martyrs. It pays homage to the victims and Martyrs of the Red Terror of 1919. The original monument was unveiled in 1934 but demolished post-war in 1945 and resurrected many years later.

And if you want to go more into the controversy, you can check the latest on the Central European University funded by Soros, and recently closed by the Government.

Finally, the pearl of the city: the Parliament. t is situated on Kossuth Square in the Pest side of the city, on the eastern bank of the Danube. It was designed by Hungarian architect Imre Steindl in neo-Gothic style and opened in 1902. Inside is the Holy Crown of Saint Stephen I of Hungary, from the Arpad dynasty, or Arpadovici in Croatian.

Speaking about it, I couldn’t resist the effect of having Croatian symbols all across the city as Hungary once (and perhaps still) claimed Croatian northern regions, forcing the magyarisation.

Lajosh Kossuth was a 19th-century Hungarian nobleman, lawyer, journalist, politician, statesman and governor-president of the Kingdom of Hungary during the revolution of 1848–1849. The Hungarian Revolution of 1848, also known in Hungary was one of many European Revolutions of 1848 and was closely linked to other revolutions of 1848 in the Habsburg areas. Although the revolution failed, it is one of the most significant events in Hungary’s modern history, forming the cornerstone of modern Hungarian national identity – the anniversary of the Revolution’s outbreak, 15 March, is one of Hungary’s three national holidays.

This resulted in strong anti-Habsburg sentiment among Hungarians, and the events in Hungary grew into a war for total independence from the Habsburg dynasty. The beloved Sissi from Vienna’s court and her intriguing affair with Count Gyula Andrássy were one of the protagonists. Having Gjula’s statue just there, at Lajosh Square, I was disappointed that Sissi’s statue has been rather small and further away from all these great men. Misogyny at its best.

However, the flooded Danube occupied my thoughts away. Combined with the sunset, it was quite a remarkable scenery that we witnessed.

Time for some refreshments before the dinner. This time we went for the beer. A famous Hungarian Dreher beer. I remember many cute interesting bars we passed by. I wished I had longer time to stay to explore. None of the bars was ever like the other.

Walking through the city, even in the night – we had plenty to discover. One of the stumbled places was the Opera house from the Habsburg era. I had to enter to witness this glory!

Dinner was odd. I don’t know how to explain this. I mean, are trying to imitate the haute cuisine with their already basic but odd elements? Or are they really that much different from the rest of the Europe?

Even the service was odd. The young waiters were happy to entertain us with their most academic knowledge. One of them was explaining the old Hungarian language from the Shakesperian times to table nearby. Poor Americans must have brain burned not knowing what was happening. All they wanted to know was: where is the best pizza in town?

The next day was a bright sunny day. Perfect for a winter icy walk through the city. As we had a bit more of the wine tasting the night before, than planned – we started our day with a good breakfast. Odd again! Spicy and sweet at the same time.

And if this was not enough to start the day – you can always have a look at these odd installations around the downtown Pest. Let me know if you understand. 🙂

Our first stop was the Jewish Quarter. I am not a fan of these places as they are always sad, depressive, expensive and based on the same story. All recognition to the Jewish suffer, of course, but I do not believe the entrance ticket to a synagogue should be 100 EUR per person. Even though it’s the second biggest synagogue in the world: Dohány Street Synagogue.

And in the course of the recent politics in the Middle East – there was the installation dedicated to the missing people kidnapped by Hamas. As you can see, the table is set for the dinner, but one person is missing at the family table.

The Rubik’s Cube is invented in 1974 by Hungarian sculptor and professor of architecture Ernő Rubik. The cube was released internationally in 1980 and became one of the most recognized icons in popular culture and one of the best-selling toys. 🙂

A sunny walk always brings more art nouveau buildings to spot. In Hungary, this style takes the name of Secession as anywhere in the Empire dominated by the Habsburgs.

The Danube river that morning was still above its usual level – attracting the visitors and complicating the traffic across the city.

This didn’t stop us to enjoy our walk and continue towards Buda. The Upper town. We crossed the Széchenyi Chain Bridge – the 19th century architectural marble and enjoyed our view all across the city.

Then we came to the other side of the river and learned that the cable car is not working today. So once again, we picked up our little legs and continued our sunny walk. The more we were climbing, the more the cityscape was beautiful, leaving us astonished.

So this was the view on the Pest, from the Upper town Buda. Definitely the classier and more residential side of the city. Famous for being a bit quieter and the place for a leisurely sightseeing experience.

Indeed they are a two different cities, each brigins its own joy.

Finally reaching the tops, we had to for some refresmhents: we choosed a nice hungarian styled coffee place that offered us Hungarian cake called Dobos torta and Hungarian sparkling wine NOT offered by the most strange waiter. When I asked him to recommend me a sparkling winre from the region, he looked at me as surprisingly said: I recommend you beer. Beer is better. I like beer.

I mean…

Harry ‘Handcuff’ Houdini with his true name Erik Weisz was a famous hungarian escape artist, illusionist, and stunt performer, noted for his escape acts. I am sure you heard of this great master. We had a chance to see one of his instruments while in Budapest. Quite impressive!

I think the most impressive monument to me was the Matthias Corvinus church. He was a King of Hungary and Croatia in the 15th century. He was moslty famous for fighting against Ottomans and peasants rights. Not like they had any right in those times, but Matthias certainly had the idea to change that. The symbol of his regency is a crow which you can see in the chirch in many places.

Two Kings of Hungary were crowned within its walls: Franz Joseph I of Hungary and Elisabeth (Sissi), and Charles IV of Hungary and Zita of Bourbon-Parma.

Fisherman’s Bastion with its seven high-pitched stone towers symbolizes the seven chieftains of the Hungarians who founded Hungary in 895. The original walls were built in the 1700s, forming part of the walls of a castle. Several historians say that in the Middle Ages this part of the castle walls was protected by the guild of fishermen (halász), who lived under the walls in the so-called Fishtown.

Finally, lunch! One last stop, one last try of this odd cuisine. We choosed super traditional palce called Fekete Holló Kisvendéglő meaning Black Raven. An iconic restaurant of the Buda Castle District with traditional Hungarian dishes.

A walk back again over the river Danube. The day was short as the winter solstice passed just recently. The colours started to change. It was a great day. I leave you with my latest photos I caught while walking back towards the car.

When Nobel Prize winner Enrico Fermi was asked if he believed in extraterrestrials, he replied: “They are among us, but they call themselves Hungarians”

This small country is one of the oldest European countries, situated in the middle of the continent in Central Europe.

Hungarians speak a language and form a culture unlike any other in the region: this distinctiveness has been both a source of pride and an obstacle for more than 1100 years.

The country’s capital and largest city is Budapest and sometimes is called the Paris of Middle Europe. Probably because of the beautiful Parliament building. It lies in Lajos Kossuth Square (Governor-President of the Kingdom of Hungary during the revolution of 1848–49.), on the bank of the Danube.

Budapest became a single city occupying both banks of the river Danube with the unification of Budim on the west bank, with Pest on the east bank on in 1873. The origins of the names Buda and Pest are obscure. According to chronicles from the Middle Ages, the name Buda comes from the name of its founder, Buda, brother of the Hunnic ruler Attila.

For long time under Ottoman rule, the city entered a new age of prosperity in the 18th and 19th centuries, and Budapest became a global city after its unification. It also became the second capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, a great power that dissolved in 1918, following World War I.

On the opposite side of the Parliament is Budim castle settled. The historical castle and palace complex of the Hungarian kings dating from 13 century.

The bridge that connects both sides of the city is called Széchenyi Chain Bridge  and it was the first permanent bridge across the Danube in Hungary and an icon of the city’s 19th century development. The bridge leads to the building of Corvinus University.

I visited the city twice and each time I found another corner or the building of interest, as it is rich with the late baroque architecture.